by Reah Norman
I’ve had the pleasure of working with the very talented photographer, Inez Lewis, on many occasions, both on editorials for PLUS Model Magazine, as well as for model portfolio shoots. Inez and I often share stories about our different experiences working on set and interacting with models. We often find ourselves having conversations about appropriate model behavior, and what I realized is that some models, especially those who are new to the industry, may not know what to do, or what not to do when working on set.
I want to take this opportunity to give models a look inside a photographer’s head, in order to see things from their point of view and get a glimpse into what they see through the lens and beyond. I sat down with Inez to get her expertise on the “in’s and out’s of shooting for your test” and general model behavior.
Reah: Let’s talk about a typical test shoot… What looks do you recommend for a model just starting out who would like to start submitting to agencies?
Inez: For a new model I would recommend shooting at least four solid looks, which are enough to make a proper comp card. Most working plus models shoot primarily commercial catalogs looks for clients, so I always suggest doing a combination of indoor and outdoor commercial catalog looks and including one trend for the upcoming season, active wear or business wear, a clean beauty look and one underwear/lingerie look.
Reah: For those readers who may not know, can you define a “commercial catalog look”?
Inez: A commercial catalog look is the average photo you see in a catalog for Lane Bryant or on websites selling clothing. The look is non-threatening and cheerful as opposed to the usually more serious and sultriness you see in fashion magazines.
Reah: What about more seasoned models? What should they be focusing on when doing their test shoots?
Inez: For more seasoned models, I would recommend shooting for the upcoming seasons, start developing your editorial looks, and always update photos when your hair or weight change.
Reah: What should a model expect from a typical test shoot- before, during, after?
Inez: When setting up a shoot a model should expect the following:
Before – A phone or in person consultation going over looks, referral to clothing stylists, selecting your makeup and hair artist, inspirational tears, retouching and print/disk options, and the expected time line. You may be asked to signed a model release, so be sure to read everything before you sign any paperwork, and don’t be afraid to ask questions. This is your chance be clear on what is expected from everyone involved in the process.
During – While shooting, a model should always expect the unexpected. My average model portfolio shoots take about half a day, however, everyone should be prepared for unforeseen situations. Traffic issues, equipment malfunctions and weather conditions cannot always be controlled, so be prepared to run late by at least 2 hours. Bring water and light snacks- a hungry model is not a happy model. If you have an ipod, bring it along. Your favorite music will set a comfortable mood and inspire you to go the extra mile on set. Be prepared to take 30 to 50 or even more photos per outfit. If you photographer is shooting digital you can ask to see the photos as they are shooting.
After – Most photographers now offer online galleries of your images, as opposed to a printed proof sheet. Be prepared to consult by email, phone or in person on what photos should be retouched. Typically, it will be two photos per look (one up-close and one full or three quarter length). If you are signed with an agency or are in talks with one about signing, you will be consulting with them as well to select the images that will be retouched. You may not love their choices, but they are looking for what they know will get you work. If you booked a shoot where you get all your photos, you should be able to upload your photos online or receive a disk of your shoot. If you booked a shoot that provides prints as a part of the package, in most cases you will receive a disk of the selected retouched images only. Make sure you are clear on exactly what you will be receiving from your photographer so you are not disappointed at the end of your shoot.
Reah: What should a model be prepared to spend an a test shoot, from head to toe, start to finish?
Inez: The cost of your shoot can vary greatly. Some determining factors can be you or your photographers location (what region of the country), experience of the photographer and makeup/hair artist, shoot location (studio/outdoors) and clothing, printing and retouching options. Most models often want to cut shooting expenses and one of the first options to go is the clothing stylist. What most models do not realize is that dressing yourself for a photo shoot is very different from dressing for work or a night club. Many otherwise great shoots end up looking less that amazing because of out-dated clothing, not dressing for your body type and complexion, and worn out garments. Your wardrobe is just as essential as the photography, makeup and hair. I would recommend saving a little longer, rather than skimp on this in the long run. Another big thing to be aware of is knowing if you will get the full disk from your shoot. Many photographers charge a smaller fee to shoot and then provide an predetermined number of edited or retouched prints. In most cases you not get a disk of the full shoot. You save money upfront but then have to pay for each photo received over the agreement. Other photographers charge more up front but include the full shoot on disk in addition to the retouches. A shoot rate can vary from a few $100 to over a $1000. Do your research!
Reah: You and I have talked a lot about models preparedness, or lack there of. Tell me about a time when a model was under prepared for a shoot. What was the outcome?
Inez: I once had a modeling shooting four very different looks and she only brought one pair of brown pumps to the shoot. Also, she scheduled the shoot to end one hour before she had to go to work. She was not able to do anything about shoes and we shot all four looks. Only one look matched her brown shoes. so the other three looks where not shot at full length. She made it to work on time but then ended up paying for another shoot to get more full body shots.
Reah: Can you give some insight into what you expect when a model comes to a shoot? What do you recommend that she focus on?
Inez: Anytime a model is prepared the shoot will most likely go smoothly. Models that come with a well equipped models bad, good wardrobe, great tears appropriate to their target market and has practiced their posing always end up with great shoots.
Reah: What are the best ways for a model to prepare BEFORE she shoots? Should there be special preparation?
Inez: If you want to change your hair before shooting, I recommend doing that a week or two before your scheduled shoot. If anything goes wrong you don’t want to have time to correct the problem. If you wax, especially on your face, do it about two days ahead of time so any redness can fade. Do not wait until the last minute to pack your model bag, as you will most likely you will forget something. The most common things models forget to pack are shoes, under garments and accessories to match all outfits. Start packing a few days before your shoot and double check everything at least a day before, giving yourself enough time to get anything you might have missed earlier.
Although the photographer often does this, Its not a bad idea to call the photographer and confirm the location address and time. I’ve been guilty of giving out the wrong information. The bottom line is do not assume that others will handle everything for your shoot. Take responsibility and be as prepared as humanly possible. If we all act in this manner there is a better chance of everything going right. Making a shoot check list is a great way to accomplish this.
Reah: What is some common feedback/direction you give to models when you are shooting, specifically regarding facial expressions and posing? Are there certain common mistakes that are made?
Inez: A very common mistake new models make is to get stuck in common poses. The most common pose that rarely looks great is one hand on the hip and one hand on the head. There are a few exceptions, but this mostly looks like a very bad cliché. Another common pose is both hands on the hips. There are times that this pose is okay, but it should be used very sparingly. Many models also want to lift there chin high, giving the nostril view. More common mistakes include the lip pucker or Elvis snarl. Again, these actually can work, but rarely do. Practice, practice, practice! Don’t come to a shoot expecting the crew to do all of YOUR work. One of my favorite models told me she practices daily in the mirror and tries to do three TFP shoots a week to keep her sharp. I know most can’t commit that kind of time, but the model that said this is one of my top two favorite models to work with ever.
Reah: Is preparations for a test shoot different than when a model is shooting for an editorial or for a client? If so, how?
Inez: The only difference I really see is posing. Know your client, see what they like and which models they are currently using, and learn to nail it. Furthermore, take it a step beyond and discover what you can add to it. For an editorial shoot, look at fashion magazines and see what other poses compliment they way you move and the clothing you will wear.
Reah: Throughout your career, I know you have had the opportunity to work with several talented stylists, and hair/makeup artists. When it comes to putting together a stellar team, what do you look for and how do you go about recommending a great team to help models create their perfect looks?
Inez: When selecting a team, I first look for the people I think will work well with the temperament of the client. When selecting makeup and hair, I’m looking for an artist that has experience with the clients skin tone and hair type. I’m looking for a clothing stylist with experience in the specific industry. The clothing stylists that styles celebrities on the red carpet may not know the first thing about what modeling agencies and clients want to see in a model’s portfolio.
Reah: From your point of view, are there do’s and don’ts for makeup, hair, and styling, specifically for a test shoot?
Inez: Yes! First of all, have neat and clean nails and toes with natural, nude or french polish. Come to the shoot with clean skin and hair and never come to set with wet hair! If you are not working with a clothing stylist, come prepared to iron or steam your clothes. Do not assume the location or photographer will provide this for you. When it comes to makeup, less is more. Many new models and new makeup artist want to put a rainbow of makeup on, which will scare away clients and good modeling agencies.
Clients are selling clothing, not makeup, so it should only compliment you, not take over the photos. Your hair should be healthy and trimmed with natural hair color. If you wear hair extensions they should look fresh and virtually undetectable. If you cannot afford the up keep that extensions require, go natural but bring hair pieces to vary your look.
Reah: Are there certain things that a model can concentrate on or avoid to make re-touching easier?
Inez: Take good care of your skin. If you are having an acne breakout, then it is not the best time to do beauty shots. If you cannot reschedule the shoot, then expect to pay more for retouching your close up shots. Again, be prepared to remove wrinkles in your clothing. Some wrinkles are easy to remove but depending on pattern and fabric it can be a disaster when trying to retouch them out.
Reah: You have told me some interesting stories about your experiences working with different types of model personalities. Lets talk about model etiquette. Lay it out there for us- what should or should not happen at a shoot and what are some of your major pet peeves?
Inez: Number one is bringing a guest without permission. In most cases having a guest will only end up hurting, not helping your shoot. I have had situations happen where the models friend can’t stay late or gets bored and wants to leave, but they drove together. What you think will help you can end up being a huge distraction to you. I’ve seen more than a few friends of the models leave shoots with an attitude. There can only be one star of the shoot and that’s YOU!
Do not try to talk on your cell while you are in hair and makeup- no one has time for that! If you have unexpected time constraints they should be discussed as soon as possible so that everyone involved is on the same page. Be sure to allow extra time to shoot, especially if you are a newer model who does not have a lot of experience shooting. Most models on time constraints end up being late or canceling the next appointment. I cannot continue a shoot on another day without calling it a separate booking, requiring a separate fee. Another big one that is VERY important- NEVER ever post or print a photo that has not been retouched. You may think you look cute, but posting an unedited photo makes you and all involved look extremely unprofessional.
Reah: What is considered good model behavior, and what is bad?
Inez: Good model behavior is coming to set rested, prepared and energetic. A good model is able to take constructive criticism, follow directions and be creative. Bad model behavior is to expect that everyone else will tell you what to do, and to get an attitude when you are getting constructive criticism. Most models do come eager to shoot with a good attitude but these are the most common things that happen.
Reah: Thanks so much for letting us see things from your perspective. I think this will be very helpful to models who are anxious to take there careers to the next level! Knowledge is power, and these are all great tips for them to know and practice!
Our editor Madeline Jones continues to celebrate the joy of fashion on television shopping networks HSN, TSC (Canada), and QVCUK.
* WATCH HER LIVE ON HSN – May 31st at 11:00 am and 6:00PM
* Watch ONLINE by visiting hsn.com and clicking on WATCH LIVE
“I know I’m supposed to only be focused on selling clothes but it’s such a great opportunity to speak body positivity to so many people. I can’t help myself!” – Madeline Jones
After two very successful drops her first SUMMER DROP is here. When we asked where her inspiration came from she said, “This collection is my version of quiet luxury. No, you will not be paying thousands for an item but the aesthetic and luxury are present throughout this drop. I leaned into hues of moss, sunset orange, and off-white and added new fabrics like stretch lace and stretch linen. Also, lots of pockets!“
Shop the entire collection on HSN, QVCUK, and TSC here: linktr.ee/everydayjones
Follow everydayJONES by Madeline Jones on social media
instagram.com/every_dayjones/
facebook.com/everydayJonesbyMadelineJones
It can feel like the entire world is focused on your every move and every word, waiting for you to say or do something they can use to tear down your reputation.
It’s exhausting—and it’s why taking care of yourself is so important.
In honor of Black History Month, I wanted to share this guide to help you make sure that you are taking care of yourself every single day so that you can be your best self for everyone else around you!
You need food. It literally keeps your body alive, so make sure to eat at least one time every day!
This seems obvious, but sometimes we forget about it! Make sure you’re drinking plenty of water throughout the day—it’ll help flush out toxins and keep your energy levels up.
Sleep is important for everyone, but especially when you’re a black woman who has to deal with all kinds of BS every day just because of who you are (and not because of anything else). Don’t let anyone tell you otherwise! You need sleep! Sleep gives us the energy we need to keep going each day without losing our minds or giving up entirely on society as a whole (or even just ourselves).
Get a massage or other type of bodywork—it’s a great way to relax and decompress after a long day at work.
Practice gratitude every morning and night by writing down three things you’re grateful for in your journal or telling yourself out loud what they are before bedtime.
Take time for yourself in whatever way works best for you—whether that’s reading a book or taking a bath or just sitting outside for 15 minutes in peace and quiet.
Get clear on what you deserve—and don’t settle for less than that. You can’t really love yourself if you don’t know what makes you happy and then pursue those things. If you want to be happy, start by figuring out what makes you happy and go after it.
You are not responsible for how other people feel or what they think about your life, so stop worrying about them so much. You don’t have time for that! Focus on yourself and let others do their own thing without your interference (unless they ask for it).
The plus size fashion retailer will be rolling out a new set of revolutionary mannequins featuring a variety of skin tones, which is reflective of the brand’s ethnically diverse consumer base.
The size-14 mannequins come in four skin tones, taking inspiration from the beauty industry, which has made strides in showcasing different skin tones in marketing campaigns and in-store ads.
Lane Bryant is the first major retailer in North America to launch mannequins with different skin tones, according to the brand. These mannequins will make their first appearance at Lane Bryant’s new Columbus, Ohio store.
This is a great addition to their in-store imagery, mailers and social media channels, which feature customers of different skin tones.
It’s so important for customers to see models and mannequins that they can identity with, so this was a smart choice for Lane Bryant to make as we enter a new decade.
Stay tuned to the blog for updates on what other stores will be included in the mannequin roll-out and IF there will be mannequins in different sizes as well.
What do you think of Lane Bryant rolling out mannequins in different skin tones in their stores? Follow us on social media and let us know: @plusmodelmag: Facebook | Instagram | Twitter
Have you seen our February 2020 cover celebrating Black History Month with the beautiful Jazzmine Carthon (sponsored by City Chic)? Click here to check it out!
We’re definitely ending the year with so many wins for the plus-size industry and here are 10 of our favorites from 2019:
This was the year we saw visibly plus size women (size 18+) front and center. With the average American woman now a size 18, we say, it’s about damn time.
From Tess Holliday gracing the July 2019 cover of Nylon to Lizzo ending the year on the cover of British Vogue, visibly plus size women were showing the world that they can exist in a larger body that may not be the perfect hourglass shape and be confident, happy and beautiful.
Universal Standard also continued to push the envelope by using a size 34/36 model on their website, which we predict will prompt other brands to use larger models alongside their usual size-14 and size-18 ones.
2019 was definitely the year of exciting brand launches, especially focused on a customer that hasn’t really been talked about… the high-end luxury buyer. New brands such as Ryllace and Henning directly serve that customer with luxe closet staples and quality basics. This new wave of luxury high-end brands forces the industry to recognize that plus size women are worth quality-made clothing and will spend the money to buy them.
Photo, Henning
Popular mainstream brands also expanded their size ranges to get in on the $30 billion dollar industry, such as Anthropologie, American Eagle and Madewell. With adidas recently launching up to size 4X in select styles and looking to expand on that in 2020, we’re excited to see where this will lead in the new decade.
Eloquii made the spring season a little brighter and bolder this year with their collaboration with celebrity makeup artist Priscilla Ono. Lane Bryant partnered with plus-size style influencer Rochelle Johnson of Beauticurve for a fresh and feminine collection.
Photo, Fashion to Figure
And Fashion to Figure’s collabs with influencers Nadia Aboulhosn and Sarah Rae Vargas gave us sexy and classy, along with snake print wide calf boots that plus-size fashionistas are still coveting.
There were some collab fails this year (we won’t name names) but if these successful collaborations are any indication of what’s to come in 2020, we can’t wait!
This year, we saw iconic designers such as Diane Von Furstenberg (via 11 Honoré), Betsey Johnson (via Dia & Co), Veronica Beard, Tanya Taylor, Rebecca Minkoff (via Stitch Fix) and Hilary Macmillan expand their sizing, with most notably, Macmillan offering up to a size 4X.
Speaking of 11 Honoré, they are truly disrupting the designer fashion world and changing the belief that only straight size women wear designer clothing. When looking at the designer list on their site, we see well-known names such as Dolce & Cabbana, Rachel Comey and Carolina Herrera available in plus sizes. While only Herrera goes up to a 24, we see this as a step in the right direction, as we walk into a new decade.
In June, Nike stirred quite a bit of controversy when it made a bold move, adding plus-size mannequins to their UK flagship store.
This came as no surprise to us as they have been integrating plus sizes into their assortment and working with key plus-size influencers, as well as partnering with Alabama State plus-size dance team The Honeybeez on a feature.
When Cyrus dropped her new video “Mother’s Daughter” during the summer, who knew including a visibly plus-size model in it would cause an uproar?
The model, Angelina Duplisea, is not a size-14 hourglass shape with a flat tummy. And Cyrus was trying to show the beauty of all in her video. The comments that were posted on social media were downright horrible and no one deserves to be shamed in that way. Ever.
We wrote back then:
“One of the biggest takeaways from this video launch and the aftermath is that fat hatred is still prevalent in the world and there is still a ton of work to be done within the body positive movement.”
Let’s hope the 2020’s see less fat hatred and more body positivity. And kudos to Cyrus for speaking up after the launch, in defense of Duplisea.
Let’s be honest, it’s been Lizzo’s year and again, we say, it’s about damn time!
Three’s a charm in Lizzo’s case as it was her third album “Cuz I Love You” that helped her achieve mainstream success.
From earning eight Grammy nominations and three American Music Awards to an appearance on Saturday Night Live (which will be the final episode of the year and decade) and a small role in J Lo’s movie Hustlers, Lizzo was everywhere this year.
She also graced the cover of British Vogue, and Time Magazine named her their Entertainer of the Year, as did Entertainment Weekly. She had 61.6 million listeners on Spotify this year alone and Apple Music called her Breakthrough Artist of the Year.
Despite her single “Good as Hell” being three years old, that record and “Truth Hurts” were both on the Billboard Hot 100 at the same time. Lizzo is so well-known to the point where she was even an answer to a Jeopardy question.
We would not be surprised if Lizzo made an appearance during the Super Bowl Halftime Show in 2020 since JLo is the headliner with Shakera. After 8 years of touring and putting in the work, we’re happy to see Lizzo finally getting her due and kicking off a new decade in a successful place.
When the Curvy Kili Crew announced that they would be hiking up Mt Kilimanjaro on International Women’s Day 2019, we were in awe. Twenty plus size women of many shapes and sizes made that climb, showing the world that larger bodies can not only move but soar.
Curvy Kili Crew leader Christa Singleton climbed Mount Kilimanjaro in 2016 and as a self-described “slow, fat hiker”, the experience was life-changing and inspired her to go back. All the women in the crew have their own empowering story as to what inspired them to hike, however one goal unified them: to have this amazing experience with other women who understand what it’s like to be fat and active.
Crew member Deb Malkin summed it up perfectly:
“The chance to go on a great adventure with other plus-size/fat women was something I couldn’t miss, an experience of a lifetime. We all know what it’s like to be in the back of the pack. We will meet this challenge together.”
In 2020, the crew will head back to Kilimanjaro in February, Peru/Machu Picchu in July and then to Iceland in August. And you can join the crew on any of these hiking trips. Click here for more info.
This was the year the plus-size industry finally got its own awards show. The Full Figured Industry Awards (the FFIAS) took place, with categories such as Model of the Year, Photographer of the Year, Retailer of the Year and others.
With key industry professionals such as celebrity stylist Timothy Snell, IMG model Zach Miko and Project Runway model winner Liris Crosse in the building, the awards show was a wonderful opportunity for those in the industry to be recognized for their hard work.
Most of the industry goes unseen by the mainstream media/fashion industry so to be honored by your own community is a major win. And of course, the red carpet fashion was pure slayage. We can’t wait for next year!
Ending the year and decade on a positive note, the major bridal retailer announced that it will no longer charge more for plus size wedding gowns. This new policy will include bridesmaids’ gowns as well.
For those of you who are unfamiliar with the term “fat tax”, it’s when plus-size customers are charged more for clothing, visiting a spa or salon, etc. It’s been called unfair and some even say it fat-shames customers. The fat tax is especially prevalent in the bridal market, where manufacturers charge more for extra fabric, beading and lace.
Jim Marcum, CEO of David’s Bridal said in an official statement:
“On average, the upcharge for a plus size wedding gown is nearly 15 percent, and we do not believe that a woman’s size should determine how much she pays. Since I started at David’s Bridal just over four months ago, I have made it my number one priority to serve all brides, making it our mission to remind every bride that she is beautiful.”
Now that’s how you start a new decade! Thank you, David’s Bridal!
2019 was an exciting year and as we usher in a new decade, we can’t wait to see what happens next in the plus-size industry and beyond.
[divider] . [/divider]What were some of your favorite plus size moments of 2019? Follow us on social media and let us know: @plusmodelmag: Facebook | Instagram | Twitter
That comment Loni Love made, “There are no real plus size icons for me” has resulted in taking the focus off her recent holiday collection with Ashley Stewart and putting more focus on plus size women voicing their opinions on Love’s comments, including naming many plus size icons, white and black.
And it appears Love’s way of listening to those opinions is to block those individuals, most recently blocking plus size model and Project Runway model winner Liris Crosse, after having a heated discussion in a series of tweets.
As many in the fashion industry know, plus and mainstream, Crosse is a veteran in the modeling game. She has had a successful career in modeling for 20+ years, as well as acting, hosting and public speaking. She is now an author and has a successful Boot Camp program she developed for aspiring models. She was dubbed the Naomi Campbell of Plus by the media and was the first plus size model to win the model competition on Project Runway.
So when Jami Griggs of the blog Style Over Size responded to Love on Twitter, mentioning Crosse and Ashley Graham are plus size icons, it ignited a heated conversation, which resulted in Love blocking both Griggs and Crosse. See the exchange below (Screenshots courtesy of Liris Crosse/Twitter):
Author Danielle James wrote in that infamous article for Hello Beautiful:
“Loni Love is a pioneer in the industry for plus size women from being a hilarious comedian to having a successful talk show as well as an acting career and an author. One thing about Love is that she has always empowered plus size women, particularly Black plus size women, while on and off the set.”
We don’t dispute Love’s career accolades or her contribution in empowering women with those boss moves. However, after that interview, her recent interactions with plus size women, most of whom are Black, are not empowering other plus size women. What it’s doing is showing a side of Love that is not plus positive at all.
These women are simply trying to point out that there are plus size icons out there, including recent ones in the last five years. Past or present, that is a fact… the plus size industry is full of plus size icons in many areas, including fashion.
To echo Crosse, we haven’t been afforded the mainstream press opportunities to become the type of plus size icon that Love is apparently seeking.
Your words are not helping to elevate us, Loni Love. And that’s not the definition of empowering plus size women.
Instead of blocking our voices, we hope you will consider humbling yourself and actually listening to what we’re saying. You might actually find that plus size icon you seek in the process and learn more about the plus size industry.
We reached out to Loni Love for comment and no response has been received as of the publishing of this article.
What do you think of Loni Love and her “no plus size icons” comment? Follow us on social media and sound off: @plusmodelmag: Facebook | Instagram | Twitter
Whether soft or bold, this season’s Pantone color palette is showing itself in a stunning array of color choices.
PLUS Model combed the web to find the perfect plus fashions featuring each gorgeous color![divider] . [/divider]
VINCE CAMUTO Drawstring Sleeve Top from Nordstrom
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Colorblock One-Piece Swimsuit with Tie from Eloquii
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Jessica Howard Cold-Shoulder Ruffle Dress from Macy’s
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JM Collection Cold-Shoulder Dress, Created for Macy’s
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GIBSON Living in Yellow Claire Cardigan from Nordstrom
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Pleat Cold Shoulder Top from City Chic
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Ruffle Hem Wrap Dress from Eloquii
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Lavender Floral Maxi Dress from City Chic
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Longitude Feline High-Neck Swimsuit from Swmisuits For All
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Bow Neckline Sheath Dress from Eloquii
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Smocked Sleeve Fit and Flare Dress from Eloquii
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Cold Shoulder Ruffle Blouse from Avenue
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New Plus Model Castings and Opportunities!
Unveiling the Power of Self-Care Rituals: Insights into Mental Wellness
SwimStar All Stars Partnership With Renowned Plus-size Model and Swimsuits For All Ambassador, Denise Bidot
Get to Know Our Cover Model Sharon Dumfries…
Welcome to Our May Issue of PLUS Model Magazine
May 9 Edition – Our Favorite Plus Size Style Moments Of The Week
April 25 Edition – Our Favorite Plus Size Style Moments Of The Week
Finding Balance in a Digital World: The Rise of Digital Detoxes
